Nubuck Leather

Nubuck leather is full-grain leather that has been sanded or buffed on the outer surface to create a soft, velvety texture.

It is more durable than suede but still requires a little maintenance to resist stains and water damage. 

Used in footwear, furniture, and accessories, nubuck offers a luxurious feel, without the expense of full-grain leather.

However, it's often chrome-tanned, which is far worse for the environment than vegetable-tanning methods (source).

At Von Baer, we advise against using nubuck for luxury items like briefcases, bags, and wallets, as its sanded surface reduces durability and lacks the refined, professional finish of premium leathers (go for full-grain, vegetable-tanned Italian leather instead - see why).

Not sure if it's real leather See this guide.

Why Does Nubuck Feel So Different?

Slide your hand across nubuck, and you’ll notice the velvety nap reacts instantly - darkening under pressure, then lightening as fibers shift back.

This unique effect comes from a meticulous sanding process applied to the strongest part of the hide: the outer grain.

But not all nubuck is created equal. The finest versions are made from full-grain leather sourced from top-tier cattle hides, primarily from regions where controlled breeding ensures tight, uniform fiber structures.

European hides - especially from Italy and France - are highly sought after because they have fewer scars and imperfections, making them ideal for a flawless nubuck finish.

How Is Nubuck Created?

• Careful Selection – Only the strongest, most blemish-free hides are chosen. Lower-quality hides won’t survive the sanding process without revealing weak spots. The best nubuck typically comes from steer hides (bull leather), which have denser fibers than cow or calf hides, making them more durable.
• Precision Sanding – The outer layer is buffed using ultra-fine abrasive pads, typically between 220 to 400 grit, revealing a soft, suede-like texture while keeping the grain intact. Higher grit numbers produce a finer nap, while coarser sanding results in a rougher texture. Over-sanding with lower grits (120-150) weakens the structure, making it prone to wear. A "fuzzy" surface often indicates cheap nubuck or low-quality sanding techniques.
• Dyeing & Treatment – Because nubuck absorbs more dye than smooth leather, it develops deep, rich color tones that patina beautifully over time. Some tanneries apply hydrophobic treatments that increase water resistance while maintaining breathability. Teflon and fluoropolymer coatings can reduce absorption by up to 50%.

A quality test: Lightly brush the surface in one direction - high-end nubuck has an even, fine texture with no irregular patches.

The depth and uniformity of nubuck’s nap can tell you a lot about quality. High-end brands use ultra-fine sanding for a shorter, more even nap, while cheaper variants often have a rougher, inconsistent surface.

We have a more detailed articles on types of leather here.

How Durable Is Nubuck? The Surprising Strength Beneath the Softness

At first glance, its suede-like surface might suggest fragility, but nubuck is built to last.

The difference? It retains the natural fiber structure of full-grain leather, meaning it resists tearing, stretching, and wear far better than suede.

However, not all nubuck has the same resilience. Thickness matters. Premium footwear brands like Red Wing or Timberland use heavyweight nubuck (2.0mm–2.5mm thickness), ensuring it can handle rugged use. On the other hand, some fashion brands opt for thinner cuts (1.2mm–1.6mm) to maintain a lighter, more flexible feel - perfect for dress shoes or handbags but not for outdoor wear.

Comparing Nubuck, Suede & Full-Grain Leather

• Full-grain leather can withstand 100,000+ flexes before showing wear.
• Suede tensile strength is 10-15 MPa (megapascals) - softer but weaker.
• Nubuck tensile strength ranges from 15-25 MPa, making it significantly tougher than suede.

How to Tell Suede and Nubuck Apart:

• Suede has looser fibers, leaving an uneven or rough mark when scratched.
• Nubuck shifts in texture more evenly, with a subtle and controlled color change.

Here is a great video comparison of suede vs nubuck:

What Can Damage Nubuck?

• Oils & Grease – Fingerprints, food stains, and even natural skin oils can darken and alter the surface permanently. Nubuck absorbs oil up to three times faster than smooth leather due to its open pores.
• Excessive Water Exposure – While some nubuck receives water-resistant treatments, prolonged moisture can stiffen the fibers and leave unsightly marks. Absorption rates can vary, but untreated nubuck can take in up to 30% of its weight in water before saturation.
• Improper Cleaning – Using conditioners meant for smooth leather can clog the fibers, leaving behind a waxy residue that ruins the nap. Incorrect cleaning methods can lead to 15-20% fiber compression loss, causing permanent texture changes.

Ever notice how high-end hiking boots often have nubuck uppers? That’s because its tight grain structure prevents deep cuts and abrasions better than suede, making it a go-to for performance footwear that needs both toughness and flexibility.

Want to learn more about how leather is graded? See this guide.

Material Properties & Aging: How Nubuck Changes Over Time

Unlike smooth leather, which develops a glossy patina, nubuck deepens and refines in texture as it ages.

Instead of gaining a polished sheen, it becomes more velvety, with high-contact areas darkening naturally.

However, nubuck does not develop a patina over time like full-grain leather, which is considered a disadvantage by some leather enthusiasts.

This aging process contrasts with:

• Patent leather, which loses its crispness over time.
• Suede, which deteriorates more easily and becomes patchy with excessive wear.

The way handles on bags or stress points on shoes gradually develop darker, more refined areas adds to the material’s evolving charm. While some see this as wear, others appreciate the organic beauty of well-used nubuck.

Environmental Impact of Nubuck Production

Producing nubuck requires more energy and resources than normal leather due to the additional sanding, tanning, and dyeing processes.

• Water Consumption – The leather tanning industry uses significant amounts of water, sometimes straining local resources.
• Chemical Usage – Tanning and dyeing can involve synthetic chemicals, which, if improperly managed, contribute to pollution.
• Waste Generation – The sanding process generates leather scraps and wastewater, requiring proper disposal to prevent contamination.
• Longevity & Sustainability – While nubuck is durable, full-grain and top-grain leathers tend to last longer, requiring fewer replacements and reducing overall waste.

Sustainable Alternative: Responsibly sourced full-grain leather offers longevity with a lower environmental footprint.

What Are the Best Ways to Care for Nubuck? (Without Ruining It)

Owning nubuck means embracing a balance between protection and preservation.

Unlike smooth leather, which thrives on conditioning creams, nubuck demands a dry-cleaning approach to maintain its texture.

Essential Care Tips for Longevity

• Use a nubuck brush to lift dirt and restore the nap - this prevents flattening and keeps the surface plush. Always brush in one direction for an even finish. Choose a brass-wire brush for heavy-duty cleaning or a soft horsehair brush for delicate items.
• Apply a water-repellent spray to add a barrier against spills and stains, especially for shoes and bags. Opt for fluoropolymer-based sprays, as they provide better protection without altering the texture. Sprays like Collonil Carbon Pro or Tarrago Nano Protector offer up to 90% water resistance without affecting breathability.
• Remove stains with a special eraser or suede/nubuck cleaner - never use soap or water, which can leave marks. For deep-set stains, a vinegar (5% acetic acid) or isopropyl alcohol (70%) solution applied with a microfiber cloth can help lift oil-based blemishes.

Best Cleaning Tools for Nubuck

• Brass-wire or crepe brush: Helps lift dirt and restore the nap. Crepe brushes are gentler for fashion shoes and bags, while brass-wire brushes work better for work boots and outdoor gear.
• Nubuck eraser block: Removes minor scuffs and marks without water or chemicals. A fine-grit sanding sponge (600-800 grit) can be used for stubborn stains.
• Waterproofing spray: Essential for protecting against stains, water absorption, and grease marks.
• White vinegar or isopropyl alcohol: Helps lift oil stains or stubborn grime without damaging the fibers.

FAQs

How to Restore Faded Nubuck?

Over time, nubuck can lose its rich color or develop shiny, flattened areas from frequent wear. While deep scratches and cuts cannot be fully repaired, faded or worn areas can often be restored to a near-original look.

Here's what to do:

• Use a color restorer: Nubuck color-restoring sprays (such as Tarrago Nubuck & Suede Renovator) replenish faded dyes while maintaining breathability.
• Re-fluff the nap: Brush thoroughly in multiple directions using a brass-bristle or crepe brush to restore softness.
• Spot repair darkened areas: Use cornstarch or talcum powder to absorb embedded oils overnight, then brush away the residue.
• For extreme wear, consider professional cleaning: Leather specialists use specialized airbrush dyes and UV treatments to evenly restore color without clogging fibers.

Expert Tip: Always test any color restorer on an inconspicuous area first - some dyes may darken the leather more than expected.

Is Nubuck Naturally Waterproof? Can it Handle Snow and Rain?

Nubuck is not inherently waterproof and can be vulnerable to water stains, stiffness, and discoloration when exposed to excessive moisture. However, with the right treatment, it can handle light rain and snow without damage.

Here's what to do:

• Use a waterproofing spray: A fluoropolymer-based spray (such as Saphir Medaille d'Or Super Invulner) provides an invisible shield that repels water without clogging the fibers.
• Reapply protection regularly: A single application lasts 2-4 weeks in normal conditions but may need weekly reapplication in wet climates.
• Avoid salt stains: Road salt can cause white residue and fiber breakdown. Wipe affected areas with a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water on a microfiber cloth, then brush once dry.

Bottom Line: Nubuck can handle light rain with proper treatment, but prolonged exposure to wet conditions without protection can permanently alter the leather’s texture and color.

How Does Nubuck Compare to Faux Leather?

Unlike synthetic alternatives, nubuck remains breathable, molds to the wearer, and lasts for decades with proper care.

How Does Nubuck React to Heat and Humidity?

Heat and humidity can cause significant long-term damage to nubuck, leading to stiffening, fading, or mold growth.

• Direct sunlight exposure can cause fading within 2-3 months of continuous wear. Keep nubuck bags and shoes stored away from windows or direct sunlight.
• High humidity (above 60%) can encourage mildew if nubuck is stored in an unventilated area. Use silica gel packets in shoe boxes or bag compartments to absorb excess moisture.
• Heat exposure (over 100°F / 38°C) can cause nubuck to dry out and lose its soft texture. Avoid leaving nubuck items inside hot cars or near radiators.

Solution: Store nubuck in a cool, dry environment with proper ventilation. If exposed to heat, recondition the fibers with a suede/nubuck brush to revive the texture.

Is Nubuck a Good Choice for Motorcycle Gear?

Motorcycle riders often favor durable, abrasion-resistant leather for protection, but is nubuck a practical choice for riding jackets or boots?

Pros of Nubuck for Motorcycle Gear:

• Soft and flexible – Unlike stiff full-grain leather, nubuck offers immediate comfort without a lengthy break-in period.
• Breathable – Ideal for warmer weather rides, as it wicks moisture better than patent or synthetic leathers.

Cons of Nubuck for Motorcycle Gear:

• Lower abrasion resistance – Compared to full-grain leather (which can withstand up to 100,000 flexes), nubuck is more prone to surface wear from road debris.
• Requires frequent maintenance – Road dust and oil buildup darken the surface faster than in traditional leather gear.

Bottom Line: While nubuck is comfortable and breathable for casual riding, full-grain or reinforced leather is a safer choice for high-speed protection.

What Are the Best Ways to Store Nubuck Long-Term?

Proper storage is key to preventing cracking, fading, or mildew growth. If stored incorrectly, nubuck can lose its softness or develop permanent stains.

Best Practices for Long-Term Storage:

• Use breathable dust bags – Avoid plastic bags, as they trap moisture. Cotton dust bags allow airflow while protecting against dust and sunlight.
• Keep shoes and bags stuffed – Use acid-free tissue paper or cedar shoe trees to maintain shape and absorb residual moisture.
• Avoid stacking items – Pressing nubuck items against each other for long periods can cause flattening and permanent creases.
• Control humidity levels – Store in an area with humidity below 60% to prevent mildew. Use dehumidifiers or silica gel packs inside storage areas.

Storage Mistake to Avoid: Never wrap nubuck in newspaper - ink transfer can permanently stain the leather.